Got Juice?? HYD brakes opstyle.

opsled

Well-known member
This idea has been in my brain for at least 5 years (maybe more). I see it in my dreams and the picture has been clear but I've never gotten (made) the time to do it. Finally put some stuff on the burner and got it done.


Others have made HYD conversions for the Mighty 4 using many different parts and methods. I have seen some of them and I think they are all good and do the job as intended. My issues with conversions is that I don't want to use parts (calipers, masters, etc) that are not an OEM Yamaha snowmobile part and I want a mechanical parking brake.


Here's the first and final product. A bracket that bolts in with the original mechanical brake to mount the new HYD caliper and an adaptation to the OEM mechanical brake to keep it and utilize it as the parking brake. All the parts are either OEM Vmax-4 or from Yamaha trailing arm tripples (SRX 700, Viper, ect). Even the bolts needed. Haven't been able to test it yet but I worked this idea out with a good friend who ownes a machine shop and we are both quite confident it will work and hold up as intended.


I have to make at least 2 more for my stuff and may do a bunch if there is any interest.


What-chya-tink?? (lol)

opsled
 

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Phil---Looks really nice----- I'll take 2. Glad I'm not the only one that dreams obout snowmobiles!
 
Thanks Carl. Checking on water jetting the bracket (will find out next week). Would be the way to go and I have an "in" on a guy who may be able to do them for me.


This sled was my buddy Don's river runner. It has always been bad assed fast. He bought it years ago with 1500 miles on it and it was his DD trail sled until 03 when he bought an RX1. Been the river runner only since. It now has 9300+ miles on it and hasn't been apart. My son Steve bought it because Don has some issues with health and hasn't run it in two years. He took it apart for a clean up and going over and we decided to get this brake deal done. He pulled the pipes (had Bender twins) and Y's, carbs and reeds and I took a look inside. The cylinders, pistons and rings still look like new. Crosshatch is clear as day in the jugs and no signs of wear at all on the pistons. The pistons have been windowed (oval) and one layer is out of the head gastket. The clutching is spot on and interesting. I haven't taken the time to fully analize it but the guy who owned it new shure knew what he was doing.

I had a nice set of PSI quads here and we decided to let the old dog play with them this winter and see how it runs breathing out of 4 nostrels.


Got the carbs cleaned, new fuel lines installed. Final routing on the HYD brake stuff and the PIS's installed and lit it up. Sound great and the brakes WORK!! After it warmed and Steve was done I grabbed the throttle. I wound it up a bit tested the brake some them grabbed it hard......


It almost nosed down off the lift and on the floor the track stopped so quick. Steve grabbed the tail and pulled it back down or we might have had an unintended incodent ((lol).


So far so good.
opsled

PS, Pics with pipes.
 

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I will be making more as I need some for me and others so if there are more guys that want them say so because water jetting would be the best way to make these in a cost effective manner and as with anything cost goes down with quantity.

These would be made out of 1/2" thick 6061-T6 aluminum (good stuff, google it). I would supply all the hardware to install it and the parts needed to mod the original brake for parking. The bracket would be a bolt on deal and everything including the master could installed in less than two hours with hand tools. Not a hard job at all.


One key to making the OEM brake work for parking is a set of worn pads. They don't have to be worn out but the SRX style rotor is vented and thicker than the Vmax-4 rotor. If the pads are new you can't back off the adjustment enough to keep it from dragging with the thicker rotor. So don't toss out used brake pads.


I'll be checking on costs this week.

opsled
 
Too bad youre so far from me Phil. I have a 4' x 10' piece of 1/2" 6061-T6 in my shop and have permission to sell it for $1.10/lb. (about 1/4 the cost of new stock) Im impressed with your bracket tho. Looks very good! Do you know if a stock silencer interferes with it? I only ask cuz my hyd. setup is mounted very close to where yours is and it just barely touches the silencer. If it rubbed any worse I would have removed it. Just dont want anybody pissed at ya later if you sell em and it doesnt fit...

http://www.vmax4.com/vbulletin/album.php?albumid=87&attachmentid=7813

Chris
 
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Hi Chris, I looked at your pic and that is one real nice bracket you have on yours (who made it, if you know). I don't think mine will interfere with a stock can but after looking at yours I better check it out (thanks for the heads up). I had the choice of mounting it ahead of the original or behind (about the same room). I chose ahead because of the bleeder locating on the SRX style caliper. If it were mounted to the rear the bleeders would face down and would require the caliper to be blead before the install with a dummy spacer the thickness of a rotor. It would not be a big deal to do but would be another step for an install.

I'll look into it and thanks for the heads up.

opsled
 
The bracket I have is vmaxmike's prototype. I think it was about the time he had the fire or something but he could not get to making me one and so he took his off. Im very happy with it. I find the only time I wish I had a parking brake is loading on a tilt trailer.
 
How did you capture the rotor so it doesnt float??

Good question and another reason I wanted the parking brake.

That issue is taken care of by using the orginal brake for parking. It has one fixed pad and the factory auto adjuster keeps the rotor float to the proper limit just as it did originally. I just have to make the bracket so it positions the new dual piston caliper centered over the rotor. If not for that something should be done to "capture" the rotor and keep it from walking around and opening up the caliper further than needed. All the Yamaha's with hyd brakes did it with washers and a snap ring on the shaft that kept the rotor in it's proper position. Shouldn't be an issue here.

Still no price but I am working on it. There will be clearance issues with a stock can and this front mount caliper (aftermarket quads and cans will clear). Not bad but close enough that I'm going to redesign the bracket somewhat to mirror itself so it can be flipped over and mount the caliper to the rear if desired. A little more effin around but once done front or rear mount can be had with the same bracket. Rear mount would be tougher to bleed as the bleeders would face down. It would require the caliper to be bled in hand, bleeders up and a dummy block between the pads to imitate the rotor width then bolted to the bracket. I'm going to try and get it done this weekend.

opsled

PS, Kaw550, the sled in these pics is the one you worked up for your neighbor all those years ago. Still had the Bender twins and still hauls ass. Thought we'd try the PSI quads on her. What do you think on that? Mistake? Go back with the twins? This thing has been shuttin mouths for years on the lakes and rivers. Guys can't believe it when the hood is opened and they realize a 92 750 with twins just waxed their big new hotrod. 9300+ miles now and the last time the engine was open it was your hands that did it and that was prior to 1500. (nice work!!)
 
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Rotate the caliper behind the rotor towards your knee, That s how I did the triple its out of the way of everything, the old brake will not keep the rotor centered, it will end up rubbing hard on one side, and quick, the hyraulic caliper is not balanced, had the same issue with mine, I tried not locking the rotor and by the end of the weekend it would be pushed over to one side or the other, all you need is a set screw in the rotor, and grind a dimple in the shaft.

Put the twins back on it, that sled had quads on it, we took them off........................
 
OK Bill thanks for the input. Locking the rotor won't be a hard job if needed but it isn't something I could do with a kit unless I supplied the rotor that was drilled/tapped with the setscrew and could figure out how to add the dimple in the kit (lol). I showed this setup to 4 different guys who I trust and that know their stuff. I asked the question about whether or not the rotor should be pinned or "captured" like you say to prevent it from opening the caliper and causing a problem. Two said it wouldn't be a problem and the oem brake would handle it. Two said it should be OK but though pinning the rotor was a good idea just to be sure. I would need the ability to run/ride this setup to be sure and that isn't happening until we get snow or ice. Pinning can always be done later if needed though. (thanks for the heads up)


I got the template done for the new bracket today. I'll be getting it to the water jet guy next week to see what he has to say on cost. It does the same job as the first one I made but is in essance a mirror of itself. This one is clearanced on both sides and can be installed either way so as to put the caliper in front of or behind the original brake. This should also help some with cost as I think they will nest better for layout and I can get more out of the same piece of plate.

We'll see.

Thanks again all, opsled

PS, I am looking for a place to buy the bolts needed and am having trouble with one of them. If anyone has a suggestion I would appreciate (I've checked with Fastenall, McMaster Car, and a couple others, No luck). What I need is a M10 flange bolt 90MM long with 1.25 pitch threads. I would prefer a flange bolt with a 14mm head as it would match OEM (15mm head OK too). Allen head capscrew would work too. I want to stay away from the 17mm head, hardware store type bolt if at all possible.

PSS, Pic is of new template mounted in rear position. It will also mount front.
 

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Final template was sent to the waterjet guy yesterday. Should know something soon. I hope the cost is in line. I sure would rather do it that way than by hand methods. Much faster, cleaner and consistant.

We'll see.

opsled
 
Well I've heard back from the waterjet guy and placed an order for 12 brackets. (price was based on a minimum of 12). I've priced the install hardware needed and it looks like I can do them for $150 (or less) per setup. This would be for the bracket, the hardware to install it and turn the OEM brake into the parking brake. I will be able to supply complete kits with the master, caliper, rotor and parking brake cable if needed. Quantities would depend on what I can buy for parts at a reasonable cost. One thing I have to work out is the brake hose.

The one from the donor (SRX 700, Viper, etc) is too short to work with proper routing. (needs to be about 8" longer). There are suppliers out there for longer hoses for these but I would like to stay away from the stainless braided and keep an OEM look to this setup. (working on an inexpensive option).


Anywho, should be able to get rolling on these once the brackets are done (end of next weekish) so if the price doesn't scare you and you want one get in line and send me a message.

I'll post more pics when the finished product is here and installed.


opsled
 
That's what we used on this first one. It worked fine but I'm looking for an inexpensive alt that will be as good.

opsled
 


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