1992 vmax 4 750 snowmobile cluctch and drive problems

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delvecchiogeorge

New member
I have a 1992 vmax 4 750. It runs but has some clutch and other problems. I just bought it and I don't know anything about this sled. It makes a almost cog or gear skipping sound when you first take off. I have no idea what that is about. The clutch engages at around 2000 rpm and bogs. I cant get it to go much beyond 20mph. The secondary clutch has a hole in it. I have no idea where to get one of those. The two front straps on the sliders are gone. When I manually turn the secondary clutch back and forth it has tons of play. Can someone help me with some advice?
 

Im not sure about where to get the parts but for the gear skipping sound i would check the chain tension. it would be a really good idea to take the chain case apart and check everything out if it has been skipping on the gears.
 
If the scondary has a hole in it, you better not drive it. When clutches come apart, things can get ugly when they explode. I have a spare secondary if you need one. The slipping noise you are talking about is probably your track ratcheting. Tighten your track and se if that helps. Check your chain tension as well while you are at it.
 
Welcome to the site! :schild27::schild27::schild27:

Sorry to hear you're having problems, but we can get you going again. You can download the service manual for your machine here: http://www.vmax4.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?4779-Vmax-4-750-Service-manual You will find the answers to a lot of your questions there.

I agree with Kahunas, do not drive it with a cracked or damaged secondary. When you do get it running good, it will probably just explode. Members here will help you with parts, or help you find them. Secondary clutches come up on ebay all the time, there have been a lot of '92 parts on there lately. Your local snowmobile boneyard might have a sled you can get parts from.

The ratcheting is probably the drive cogs slipping on the track. The procedure for adjusting the track tension is in the service manual. You can adjust the chain tension before you take the chaincase apart. There's a bolt and nut sticking out the side of the chaincase about halfway up. Loosten the nut, turn the bolt in until it's finger tight, no tighter, then tighten the nut back up.

Is there a TORS light on the dash when it's bogging? These sleds have a safety mechanism that will restrict the engine RPM if there is a problem with the throttle linkage. If it's hooked up properly, the light on the dash will come on. If your secondary has a hole in it, your belt is probably no good. The service manual also shows how to check the width of the belt.

The front straps on the suspension will keep the front end of the sled on the ground during acceleration. Unless you want to spend all of your time looking up in the sky, you should replace those.

Check some of those things out and let us know what you find.

Shark
 
u will want 2 have ur limiter straps hooked up or u could put ur rails threw the track like some have found out and u should use a stabber wheel kit so that never happens
 
If your clutch is engaging at 2000, your primary spring is broken. Figure out what clutch setup you want and buy your new spring accordingly.
 
I had the ratcheting problem, even after tensioning the track. I replaced the track and if I remember correctly I flipped the cog wheels and used the other side to drive. You have to press or knock them off the shaft. Probably better to replace them. I also burned my chain out, somehow the drain plug was missing??? Make sure it's tight, the access hole is under the bellypan.
 
Thank you guys. This info is very helpful. I'll get started working on these things this weekend. I'll keep ya posted.
If anyone has parts that they want to sell, please let me know. Again Thank you for all of your help.
 
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