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vmax41992
12-18-2005, 06:15 PM
well i took my sled out today and a bunch of problems
1st my engine quit runnig it wont move it starts but it back fires i was moving along pretty quick when it just started to back fire then went dead on the road

2nd my oil pump isnt working can anyone tell me how to prime the pump i check the plugs on the first wot test and they were white as a ghost so i put alot of oil in the tank so i didnt burn the motor up when it died the plugs were black not fouled they looked good to me

Skinner
12-18-2005, 07:45 PM
If the plugs were black, they are probably fouled
I think the guys posted on how to bleed a pump in IZZ"S thread "PISTONS MELTED"

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 08:09 PM
yea but i put new ones in and it still back fires

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 08:18 PM
i cant find it on ther ill keep looking but if anyone can help please im going crazy here trying to figure it out

racer7x
12-18-2005, 08:35 PM
1- disconnect the main hose at the pump and run oil out of it until there aren't any air bubbles.

2 - I use a large hypodermic needle (w/o a needle attached) to fill the small lines that go to the fuel pumps, an oil can would work too.

3 - remove the bleed screw on the oil pump (it's right where the smaller lines come out) and let oil run out until there aren't any air bubbles.

4 - adjust your throttle cable free play.

5 - adjust the oil pump cable to spec.

6 - it wouldn't hurt to use some premix, not too much because you should be able to see that all your oil lines are air free. Be aware that too much oil causes your motor to run lean (air fuel ratio), it's more common to destroy an engine from a lean condition than it is to destroy one from a lack of oil.

7 - fire it up and manually put your oil pump to full stroke (pull/separate the cable) for a couple to minutes to make sure that you have oil.

Ken

This is copied from another post....

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 08:48 PM
thank u for the info and i never would have known that it would run lean from too much oil thanks
now that i got that covered can anybody help me with getting it running again it will start but it keeps back firing and when i give it gas it quits runnig i put new plugs in it and it does the same thing

racer7x
12-18-2005, 08:56 PM
Sounds like something in the carbs making the TORS kick in. Take your carbs off and make sure all of them are clean and the slides are opening & closing properly......

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 09:01 PM
oh yea i forgot about that thankyou . your a life saver that didnt even cross my mind ill take them off and let you know but would it still back fire at idle

racer7x
12-18-2005, 09:03 PM
What is your idle set at ? If its over 1500rpms it possibly could....

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 09:08 PM
after it quit runnig it started to idle at like 2500 before when it was fine it was at 1500

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 09:09 PM
so do you think that could be my problem

racer7x
12-18-2005, 09:11 PM
I would definatly say something is wrong with your carbs and making the TORS kick in, thats what is causing the backfiring...
Its all related to something with the carbs.....

IZZ
12-18-2005, 09:12 PM
Hey V492, Is this your 1st run of the year? and did it run good when you parked it last year?

If this is the case or even if its not quite the case - you need to clean them carbs - this is more than likely the problem or bad gas!

If you need help with this - let me know - Ive gotten pretty good at it with all the experimenting with jetting and problems Ive had.

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 09:18 PM
izz yea its my first time out and i broke my crank last year and since then im finding out the hard way not to cut corners and to take my time with this machine and to do things right the first time and i would like your in put on these carbs because as it turns out this thing is not like a dirt bike and racer7x i realy appreciate all the info you have given me on this matter and no more short cut in my plans is ther any special way to check these carbs because i thought i cleaned them good the first time

AL P
12-18-2005, 09:47 PM
Dare I recomend a compression test on all cylinders?

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 09:54 PM
i can check it when i get up in the am thers alot of ideas that should have crossed my mind just worried about it not running my mind went blank when it quit it was running strong too just never crossed my mind

Busted Max
12-18-2005, 09:56 PM
Dare I recomend a compression test on all cylinders?

i would do it. might have burned a piston. if it keeps backfiring and the plugs were white.....

vmax41992
12-18-2005, 10:10 PM
no they werent white they were black when i first check the plugs they were white and found out my oil pump wasnt working so at that point i put oil in the gas then they were black

AL P
12-18-2005, 10:57 PM
How did you discover your oil pump was`nt working?
and I would still do a compression test? I really hope it reads good, but thats probley the first thing i would do. especialy after the oil pump was`nt working, and then the motor dieing down/backfiring ect.

alwb20
12-18-2005, 11:12 PM
your problem is your carbs most likely.i dont know how good you are with cleaning them.but every jet needle and air screw has to be cleaned.to clean take carb cleaner and spray every thing out.dont be afraid to over do it.dont forget to remove the air screws in front of carb.there little bass screws.make sure you use the right size screwdriver thay strip easly. i think one of them is just a plug screw but should be removed and cleaned too and clean out your air boxes while you have the carbs out.before puting the carbs back to gather make sure you hands and parts are clean the smallest piece of dirt will plug something up.

vmax41992
12-19-2005, 01:50 AM
when i put it back together the first time i put a little oil in the gas just in case the oil pump didnt work . i only had 1 gallon of gas. when i went out today i filled the tank . i warmed it up real good took off down the road when i read about piston melt down with a little run the first thing i did was a little wot shut it off and checked the plugs they were white scared the s*"#t out of me so my dad whent back to the truck and got the oil i dumped it into the gas tank. i rode a little and checked them they were getting darker so we went for a little ride down the back roads about 16 miles then it quit when i was going about 45 mph i was just getting on itthen it shut right down and started to bacf fire i shut it off and checked the plugs they werent real black but they werent white

alwb20
12-19-2005, 02:32 AM
if i was you, i would clean your carbs,put new plugs in and plug oil pump and run new mix gas.your back firing because of dirty carbs.your stalling out because you have to much oil in tank.

vmax41992
12-19-2005, 09:00 AM
ok heres a pic of the plugs out of it when it started to back fire please excuse the tooth paste on the counter for i did it in the batroom counter so you can see the color of the plugs better

vmax41992
12-19-2005, 09:28 AM
ok i was hearing a noise from the ignition side bofore it went out then it quit so i took it off and found this can anyone tell me if this is supposed to be like this it has 2 small holes in the metal i post a pic

vmax41992
12-19-2005, 09:29 AM
is there anyway this could be my problem and if so does anyone have 1 of these for sale

KING OF THE LAKE
12-19-2005, 09:43 AM
DEFINITELY DO A COMPRESSION TEST-SHOULD BE 125 MINIMUM WITH NO MORE THAN 10 PERCENT DIFFERANCE BETWEEN HIGHEST TO LOWEST CYLINDERS. ALSO DISCONNECT YOUR TORS SWITCH ON CARBS WHERE THE THROTTLE CABLE CONNECTS TO CARB RACK CAM. UNPLUG FROM HARNESS AND PLUG THE TWO HARNESS WIRES BACK TOGETHER TO MAKE A COMPLETE CIRCUIT. YOU CAN LEAVE THE TWO ENDS DISCONNECTED ON THE SWITCH. TRY THIS AND SE WHAT HAPPENS. THE TORS SWITCHES DO GO BAD QUITE OFTEN.

jminor
12-19-2005, 09:57 AM
DEFINITELY DO A COMPRESSION TEST-SHOULD BE 125 MINIMUM WITH NO MORE THAN 10 PERCENT DIFFERANCE BETWEEN HIGHEST TO LOWEST CYLINDERS. ALSO DISCONNECT YOUR TORS SWITCH ON CARBS WHERE THE THROTTLE CABLE CONNECTS TO CARB RACK CAM. UNPLUG FROM HARNESS AND PLUG THE TWO HARNESS WIRES BACK TOGETHER TO MAKE A COMPLETE CIRCUIT. YOU CAN LEAVE THE TWO ENDS DISCONNECTED ON THE SWITCH. TRY THIS AND SE WHAT HAPPENS. THE TORS SWITCHES DO GO BAD QUITE OFTEN.


I think you'll scare alot of people with 125 minimum compression numbers. Did'nt these things only start out at 125 or was there a difference in the 750 vs 800?

Ken
12-19-2005, 10:13 AM
I'd say the first thing that you want to do would be a compression test, there is no point in doing anything else until you rule out engine damage.

Post your compression readings. I'd be more worried about variations between cylinders than the actual number, gauges vary.

Are you sure that you weren't getting any oil, were lines dry or did they have air bubbles in them?

Did you do anything else to your engine, jets, pipes, etc?

vmax41992
12-19-2005, 11:20 PM
ill do the compression test in the am i just got off work and i did not do any engine mods to it it was already done it has bender quads and a bender cdi i think thats what its called its tacked out at 9000 rpm it was making a clanging sound when id shut it off we tried to find where it was comming from but couldnt find it when she quit the noise stoped thats why i took the magneto off thats where the noise came from and i found the 2 holes in the magneto do you think that could be it im still going to do a compressoin check and if you guys think that my magneto is good still ill put it back on and check the tors and about the oil it was working when i took it off to weld the crank and i didnt prime it when i put it back together i just filled the oil resivor and let the oil drain out the line then hjooked it up when i went to start it for the first time i put oil in the gas so i didnt burn it up befor the oil pump was working

alwb20
12-20-2005, 12:01 AM
hay when you get a chance grab ahold of your clutch and shake it up and down .some times when the bearing goes bad it will make the nosie like you heard.or you can pull it over and watch it as it spins.if the bearing is bad it will wobble a little bit.the bearing im talking about is right behind the clutch.its a $20 part thats need replaceing once in a while.

AL P
12-20-2005, 02:26 AM
Humm,,i dont know what to think of them holes? I`m not sure if it would hurt anything or not? it looks like its just holes in the metal sheild over the magnet, but I dont know if that would have any effect on the field or not? how does the stator look? are thier any marks or anything on it?

Black1000
12-20-2005, 06:21 PM
If your oil pump was not working and you have backfiring even when you cleaned your carbs I'm afriad you might have squeaked it. Just driving along and it just dies. AAAHHHH sounds like the old whiskey burns of days gone by.

A little to much wiskey and not enough warm up time and hone it across the first lake and........... quit.

Do the compression test and see.

vmax41992
12-20-2005, 10:22 PM
ok heres what i got i just did the compression check and ive got 120 pounds on all four so where should i go from here . i think im going to taKE THE CARBS OFF AND CLEAN THEM prime the oil pump then try to start it if it does the same thing im going to check the tors to see if i works when i bypass it well thats where im at am i going in the right direction

alwb20
12-20-2005, 11:13 PM
take your time cleaning them use alot of carb cleaner.and put new plugs in.if you dont clean them the right way it will run good for 10 min. then back to the same problems.the only thing i would be worried about is that clang nosie you heard.just double check the bearing behind the clutch make sure every thing is tight.

vmax41992
12-21-2005, 07:41 AM
the bearing behind the clutch is good and the noise is not there now i could herer it when i pulled the codr now it sounds normal

Ken
12-21-2005, 04:04 PM
it was making a clanging sound when id shut it off we tried to find where it was comming from but couldnt find it

You might want to pull your recoil off and make sure that the starter pulley on the crank is tight. These do come loose and make a racket. If it is loose check the key, if it's worn replace it, and use some blue Loctite on the retaining bolt.

Ken