Busted Again....Pissdddddddd

[DV8]

Ok, well If you saw my post a couple weeks ago, My primary clutch had melted. Because my secondary was opening up....And smoked my fixed sheave on the Primary. Got a new sheave, new secondary spring, Had it all put back together, Ran good. Except the secondary was still kinda opening up a little more than I like. So I upped the twist to C 2..
My brother goes to take it for a ride and instead of looking at whats wrong when it doesnt move right away holds the gas down........And guess what,,,Smokes the primary again.. Hopefully not the belt. I dont know whats defective with my secondary....The Helix and parts all look ok, Brand new spring.. Either I'm not putting it together right or someting else is wrong with it...Right now just fed up with it....

[quadzillaracer]

Are you sure that the secondary has the proper backspacing in relation to the primary...and or, are clutches properly aligned (center distance)?

[RedWhiteandBlue]

And you are preloading the secondary when assembling, right?...Blue

[vmax4rules]

Are you sure the secondary spring tension is correct, back in the early day's my local dealer put mine together incorrectly and the sled would not move,
it would rev up and try to move but the secondary would just open up (do to lack of tension) and the belt would drop down like you were WFO.

[vmax4rules]

You beat me to the punch RWAB, I need to type faster! (LOL!)

[RedWhiteandBlue]

Great minds think alike!...Blue

[DV8]

The clutches are aligned properly, I mesaured them when I did the clutch.
When I put the secondary together I put the spring in with the stub part in C on the sheave part, Then I put the Helix on the # 2 hole. Push it on the splines, put the washer on then the C clip. I have done it this way several times and it has worked......Preloading it....Explain please..

[RedWhiteandBlue]

Right before you push it all together and "engage" the ramps of the helix you MUST twist the secondary about 1/3 turn to preload the spring and then push it all together so it starts out with tension on it. You know you got it right by putting it on the jackshaft, rotate the inside sheave clockwise (should be fighting you the whole way) and then if you let go of it it should "snap" back again. Most common mistake made with secondaries is not preloading them, they just open right up without that tension! Once someone shows you one time it makes perfect sense but too hard to describe on here...Blue

[Big Bore 904]

The C2 setting is too light. We've run these style secondary clutches in the 3 range i.e. A3, B3, C3. Usually C3. If I recall correctly, A3 is 33 degrees preload, B3 is 43 and C3 is 53. C2 is much less. The next index is 4. A4 is 63 degrees according to my primitive recollection. I don't have my chart handy to be able to tell you what all the settings represent. I believe the guys who have answered are correct in that you have too little secondary preload. Also bear in mind that there are different secondary springs floating around out there. Some have the ends in line and some have them 180 degrees apart. The right spring should have the ends in line in order to follow the correct relationship of clutch sheave to helix.

[DV8]

I know what you mean about turning it on the sled and having it fight you.. Your preload is made by turning the secondary not the Helix right,

[Roadrunner]

I agree with Blue -Once someone shows you one time it makes perfect sense but too hard to describe on here...Blue
He tried to describe it to me on the phone but I had a hard time understanding but once he was here and showed me how to do it, it is easy!
Doug

[DV8]

So if I hold the Helix Staionary and turn the secondary counterclockwise say 30 degrees then push the Helix on the spline..

[Big Bore 904]

You've got the idea now.You'll have to turn the moveable sheave more than 30 degrees. On C3 you'll feel quite a bit of tension. Hold the two halves of the secondary together at that tension then line up the splines and push the helix down. The ramps on the helix must be past the buttons on the moveable sheave. An extra set of hands helps if someone is around at least to put the snap ring on for you.

Good luck.

[AL P]

EDIT..sorry big bore, was typing when you posted..

DV8..for what its worth..when I put my helix on recently, I turned the helix, not the secondary..just seamed easier that way..I kinda made sure the play/movement was out of the secondary sheave, then put the spring in the holes I wanted, then rotated/twisted the helix till I could slide it over the studs..

[DV8]

Ok, I understand now. I dont think I was turning it enough. You have to turn the helix/secondary.. past the peek buttons then push down..

[Big Bore 904]

Exactly. Please don't set it at C2. C3 will be more difficult but it will work much better. Guaranteed.

You have the older style secondary with the inboard stationary helix. These were more of a pain to adjust. The newer style secondary was much easier to work with. Al P did a good job of describing that method.

[DV8]

OK, Thanks guys, I have to wait for parts to come in..Hopefully by wednesday I'll have it back and running. I'll try the C 3 setting, The secondary needed to be tighter.. Thanks again...everyone