drop and roll

Busted Max

Member
has anyone done it to the vmax4? looking for better ways to get a larger lug in there. i know i can fit a 2" with 8 tooth drivers, that are cut for the coolers. but i dont want to cut.

do you guys have anypics on how its done? if its not too hard i will do it myself.
 

Busted Max said:
has anyone done it to the vmax4? looking for better ways to get a larger lug in there. i know i can fit a 2" with 8 tooth drivers, that are cut for the coolers. but i dont want to cut.

do you guys have anypics on how its done? if its not too hard i will do it myself.

Busted Max..I did mine quite a few years ago and it made a heck of a difference.My jack shaft now goes thru the tunnel.It requires some very careful measuring.If you can fabricate and weld aluminum it's not to difficult and well worth it.I can't remember exactly but the drive shaft is about 2 1/2" back and about 2" down...lots of room.
 

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thanks hontri. mabye i could get specialty sleds to do it. im partly related to ken so i might get a deal. i got a deal on extroverts from him.
 
Chris

When I was talking to Specialty Sleds a few years ago about a Drop and Roll, they quoted me somewhere in the $2000 range. Needless to say, my chaincase is still in stock position. You can do it yourself . Templates make it a lot easier but note this. After your done, your driveshaft will always be the first to hit a rock or frozen dirt lump. It will be lowered to where most of the protection from the belly pan is gone. This is ok in deep powder but if you're going to ride around here too much, you could be replacing a drive shaft.
Just my thoughts.

Ian
 
Would it be in best intrest to add some sort of guard to protect the dshaft from being struck or would that be a detriment to operation of skid?
 
Hi,
The last 95 st that I had I dropped the chain case similar to Hontri's. worked great and gave room to put any track. i was not able to mogul bash anymore though and found this out after a broken drive shaft. I decided to put it back to stock and then put a 2" chicken plucker on it. The difference that the dropped chain case made was very noticable while climing and in deep powder. To invent a way to protect the drivers from hitting the ground was beyond me and after the broken shaft due to bending it, I decdided to go the stock reliable rather than modded mountain money pit that it had started to become.
 
drop &roll

That's strange,my 03 has been d&r'd for 10 years and iv'e never had any shaft breakage from hitting it. I did break one on a climb but it broke from age and load. Did a big d&r to my 800 Polaris no breakage there either. Hmmmm! Maybe i just been lucky.There are a lot of d&r's around here and it doesn't seem to be a problem and it sure does help. Well worth it in my opinion.
 
this sled is not for ditch bangin. its goin mtns and only in the powder. i have 4 sleds here, so its not gonna kill me not to drive it all the time.

thanks for your help guys.
 
Hey Busted, Go ahead and do your drop and roll. I did mine before my 93' was off warranty. I cut all the support brackets off the bulkhead and have the jackshaft right on top of the bulkhead (1/64" clearance). This dropped it about 1" and then I rolled it back about 2". This gave me room for a 2" track and 9 tooth drivers (don't go less than 9s)
This gave me a good aproach angle. It goes in the powder pretty decent and climbs good.
It is just about impossible to have 1 sled excell at mogal bashing and kick ass on the mountain, so set it up for what you want it to do.
If you want to build a climber your vmax will work very well!! I still turn heads with my old Yamaha.
 
i am using justins old setup. i want to set it for climbing. but 80 percent of the time will be powder bashing. i dont ride with alot of people so i wont ride the steep without a bunch of people around. dont wanna get buried in a avy.

i can probly do the chaincase myself but how would i get the mount for the secondary to move down? thats the biggest problem i see.
 
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Drop & roll

Hey Busted!!
Cut and grind everthing off the top of the tunnel, run your bolts right through the tunnel (for the jackshaft support).
There is a fine line between drop and rolling too much or not enough. I have had sleds that I dropped too much and they are not fun to ride.
The approach angle of your track is very important, I also run short rails with the suspension slid back to give a better angle.Here are some pics of my Vmax. It climbs very well. You must understand that you can't be the king of the mountain all the time, as someone with a turbo will make you look like a bottom feeder!!! HOWEVER, If somebody is going to out climb my VMAX he has a GOOD sled.
It is really cool to have an old sled and out climb all the new stuff.HPIM0305.jpg

HPIM0308.jpg

HPIM0313.jpg
 
hey i cant see your pics.
if you want my email is chris030484@gmail.com i would apreaciat it very much.

thanks for the advice. as for the attack angle i dont think i should have a huge one with the drop and roll and a 159 skid brought back a inch for the 162" i was thinking maverick. but i want to consider other options.
 
Dropped chain case

Hello, I dropped my chain case down 2 1/2" and rolled it back 2 1/4"
With this setup I was running a 141" track with 3" Paddles using 8 tooth drivers. Now I run a 144" x 2" Camo with 9 tooth drivers. Tons of clearance. I still use my original chain case with no mods. My jackshaft actually goes through my tunnel now. Had to build a custom bearing bracket on clutch side. Been like this since 1996, no problems. :4fzfo8:
It took one day and countless buds to perform this job. Would do it again in a heartbeat.
 
drop n roll

Hello I have tried 2 ways The first is old tech. but works good we cut and streched the chaincase so the top shaft is in the stock location and the bottom moves down n back approx 2 and a half inchs.(I'll check my friend may still have a spare one,I believe eckholm and cycleworks used to build them) the down fall is the yamaha chain,chain case and top shaft weight they are heavy...
The other way i have now gone:I used a early 90's pol. xlt chaincase,cut the brake mount off put a 13 wide hyvo chain in(these are standing up to 300hp + rx-1 engines) with approx 2:1 ratio and 97 700 rmk top shaft,used 800 max axle. (polaris hyvo's fit yamy's shaft).Then we burried the top shaft in the tunnel and rolled axle about 2.5" back n down. used a light polaris rotor and willwood caliper and one piece 9 tooth exrtovert drivers. If you look at frankensled you can see this also. The major reason for this was weight savings if I remember right it took off about 21lbs.and a lot a rotating mass which 1lbs ='s 4lbs .or every pound of rotating equalls four pound of weight. In the mountians weight is huge..
later Rick
pm me if you want more info, heres a couple pics.
 

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they thanks for posting, i havent been around in a while. any info would be great on a drop and roll. just i wont be getting to it anytime soon. some real issues came up for me.
 
chain case roll

ya my set up is very similar to urs i have the roll with elkhom tunnel with a 141 x2 and 9inch extravirts the pitch angle is very important i have a 136 suspention m10 which is set back in the chassi that allows the track at the front of the sled to lay back with a low slope which makes it a awsome deep snow machine, just love the way it works and get commets about how the suspention is working when its rough and deep breaking trail. its a good idea to put a big wheel kit on the rear axle like say 8 to 10 inch as that frees up rolling resistance which is good for 5 mile an hour more top end. if u go with the big wheels then a 144 is better. good luck u wont be dissapointed
 
i run 38tooth bottom 20 top 7 tooth 3" pitch extroverts and 162" x 3" comoplas and it out climbs all new sleds I've incountered since masive torque
 
Hey Davidsicard, would like to see some pictures man if you have time. Did you drop and roll the chain case too?
 


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