engine phasing ??s

Just checked the phasing of the my 92

2 and 3 are not exactly 90* apart it is about 13* off, is there a tolereance?

Are there any problems with running it like this?

its stock and has 4,400 miles on it,

thanks
Jeremy
 

It has turned. Should be exactly 90*. No tolerance. Perfection is needed for a good running engine. When they turn the 3-4 cylinders will turn to the late side of timing. If you run it the 3-4 side will run late and foul badly at idle. If they fire at all it will be at higher rpms. It will be doggy and slobber fuel badly out the 3-4 side. The further out it is the worse these symptoms are. It will not get better by itself. If you calculate 13* of late mechanical piston timing into the total advance of the electrical timing you will see that it won't run well.

I'd fix it for sure.

opsled
 
I was kinda figuring that after I saw that there is only 1 pickup for the ignition.

Is it just a matter of re-clocking the gears in the "transfer case" or do you have to press off the gear and press it back on?

I have the ability to weld my own crank with my tig.

thanks

Jeremy
 
I believe you would have to press the gear back off and then back on. I know the person that repaired mine had a jig set up for these cranks so it would be perfectly indexed.................Tom
 
You have to tear down the motor, splitting the engine case halves, and remove the crank. You need to determine which gear has spun. It could be either the left or right side crank halves that have spun. To do this correctly, you need a jig, or have some accurate way of measuring the degrees of the crank halves. Then you need to realign the spun gear and weld both back in place. That is the basics, and there is a lot more to it than that as well.

I would not attemp this myself unless you are well versed in crankshaft repair. Welding it isn't the issue, it is getting it ready to weld that takes the skill!
 
talked to my machine shop today, they handle all my RD cranks, and they said they would do it for 125.00 on both cranks and weld them up too.

I have yet to drive the sled as we have no snow so I dont know how bad its going to run, I would like to take it out on a couple of county runs but not if its going to be detrimental to the rest of the engine.
 
I guess my question is why did you decide to check the phasing. Did you just buy the sled or did it begin to run badly at the end of season last year. If your absolutely sure its out of phase theres no time like the present to get it torn down and repaired before the snow does fly. If the gear has slipped it will probably only get worse and I wouldn't want to have my sled out of service while everbody else is out riding..................Tom
 
I wanted to check the phasing because I had heard about them slipping, I had just bought it and it does have low miles is in great shape and the engine pumps out to 120 across all 4, the cylinders look great with no signs of abnormal wear.

I am a very preventative maintainence kind of guy. down right anal, ask anybody I know.

I have looked for awhile to find a low mileage Vmax 4 and now that I have one I dont want to wreck anything.

The sled starts in 1 pull when cold, idles very smoothly and is hitting on all 4. the plugs I pulled out look great, a little on the rich side but Im sure the guy who sold it had started it a couple of times for potential buyers.

I guess I will have to get it back together and give it a rip around the yard and see what happens.
 
The ones I've delt with that are out of phase didn't run that well. Hard to start, miss at idle on 3-4, only hit with higher rpms and slobbering badley out the 3-4 side exhaust.

Yours might be fine.

If you do get it checked and welded change there are crank seals behind the gears. If there is any doubt while it's apart change them. Also in order to weld the gears without damaging the seals the crank half must be submerged in oil or some other suitable liquid up to the gear to keep the heat from wrecking the seal. Make sure your guy knows this.


Good Luck
opsled
 
I have just gotten the original owners phone number and have a call in to him, waiting for a call back to see what the driveability was like when he sold it.

I have consulted my machine shop and they do take great care when fusing cranks so the seals dont get damaged.

Are there any places in WI that stock the rebuild gasket kit for this motor? and what is recommended for gaskets?

I have had my hands in many 2-strokes over the years and this will be nothing new, just more cylinders and liquid cooling, but is there anything to watch out for if I do have to pull it apart?

thanks again

Jeremy
 
Talked to the original owner of my V-max, the guy I bought it from bought it to flip it, and it turns out he never had any problems with it, ever.
He has owned it since it has had 700 some miles on it and took really good care of it, only reason he sold it was because he got out of snowmobiling.

Looks like I was all worried for nothing.

Doesnt matter, I will ride it this winter and then in spring the motor will be rebuilt and the cranks will be welded in anticipation for some quads!

Thanks for all the help!

Jeremy
 
Hey guys, i just picked up a 1993 V4 froma friend of mine and l was reading this post and decided to check.
Cylinders 2 & 3 are at TDC at the same time, does this mean the crank is at 180* firing
?
 


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