X 10 skid Swap.

[Naskram]

Ive got a 136" x 2" track and x10 skid, that im putting in my 1993 Vmax4 long track. l will post progress and pictures.

Step 1

lm going to see buddy where the skid came from. lm then going to put the sled on a flat surface sitting at the height i was with the skid in, and them.


Measure the distance between the drive shaft and all the other mounting holes,

Measure the diameter of the top rollers and drivers. (track tension)

Measure the dia of the org mounting holes ( imp vs metric).

 

[SledheadDrew]

Any updates on the sucess or lack there of on the x-10 swap?:2dontknow

 

[Naskram]

update.

l pulled the 136" stock skid:

l put the stock skid next to the x10.

l raised the stock skid underneath, so that the tips of the runners where level. This made the front mounting frames level.( the runners on the x10 are 1 1/2 deeper than the stock skid.) this means that the angle that the track goes on/of the drivers remains the same.

The X10 front mounting holes are set back 3 3/4" from the stock hole, centre to centre.( 1st pic)

The measurement from the front to rear mounting holes is 28 1/2" centre to centre, this dimention comes from the doner sled.

There are a couple more dimentions to come, its slow going in -20!

lve removed the front mounting brackets that are on the inside of the tunnel (in pic) by grinding of the two rivits, there is eveidence if some ovaling. l will reuse these brackets using other holes. Also reinforcing the outside of the tunnel.

l will use the rear mounting brackets, by removing rivits and setting further back.

This upgrade would be easy for someone with 'DIY' skills and a helper, it would take 2-3 hours, with the correct tools and dimentions,...............in a nice warm shop without interuptions..........

 

[Naskram]

l remounted the front and rear brackets.

The rear bracket is as far back as it can go and be supported by tunnel, ( l splashed some white paint around you can see where it was moved from)

Remount the rear bracket first, run aline from the centre of the drive shaft to the centre of the hole in the rear mounting bracket.

Measure 3 3/4" back and 1/2" up from the orgional front mounting hole.

By mounting the rear bracket where i did, it is now 1/2" closer to the front than the doner sled, lf it causes a problem i will drill new holes in the mounting bracket.

Some other things to consider:

The stock skid had a independant 'top roller' , im not going to refit it.

Some people remount the front shock from the stock skid into the doner skid.

lm going to get some heavyer than stock torsion springs,

 

[Naskram]

The skid went into the sled with no problem.

lt is a good idea to compress the rear section of the suspention as it is 'under tension' a little when mounted.

l used longer bolts to compensate for the spacers.

lve had the sled on the ground and run it in the air, there seem to be no binding issues.

l have put harder torsion springs in it, it may be a mistake as the clearance now,between the top roller wheels and the springs is tight.


lts currently skiless,lm going to pillage the skis of my 600 and test it!

 

[Naskram]

EUREKA!!!!!!!!!!!

.................Well ive done about 15km now on the new skid, the difference is like night and day. lt would be intersting to ride a stock one next to it.
lts much more manuverable now(i have uni skis, and big covers, this may contribute, before stock), and most of all there isnt the spine jarring pain every time you land or go over a mole hill.

l have a couple of bits to do;

Now i know it works, im going to replace the rivits with stronger ones. im going to get some tunnel braces for when i stand up, i want to incorperate the front mounting bolts for extra strenght,

Well worth the effort.